anolog adress system channel control

we use a anolog adress system which in turn is sitting on a gaint red box.(we use this system for overhead stage lighting) at one point a couple of lights stopped working to the 8 channel pots. i went through the patch menu, and i discovered that work light was enabled for some of them. i turned this off, and regained control of the majority of the lights. unfortunately 3 of the lights still do not respond to anything (they are stuck at full intensity, and the only way i could find to turn them off, was to flip the 3 breakers) .  these 3 lights worked before, but now they do not even respond to the test all function, nor can i change their value through freestyler and the entec pro. ( the other lights respond to both, and even work lights respond to freestyler) i tried all 512 channels from within freestyler. i got everything to work except those 3

 

my other question is that we have a seperate house light system, with seperate slider stations. but it is still inside the same box. is there any way to adress this house light system through the dmx interface?

 

any help with these two issues would be appreciated



[edited by: poland fun at 8:00 PM (GMT -6) on Thu, Oct 13 2011]
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  • Hi,

    If I am reading your post correctly, you have three lights that are supposed to be controlled by the first AAS processor but they are stuck on at full no matter what you do on that processor, correct? If that is the case, I would look at where those lights get their power. You mentioned flipping the circuit breakers off so I am guessing that these might be in a dimming rack. When some types of dimmers fail, they can fail in such a way that the circuit stays on. If these are modular dimmers, you could test this theory by powering down the rack that holds those dimmers, swapping the modules that control the problem circuits with ones you know work, and then powering back on the rack. If the problem moved to the new circuits (followed the module) then you know you have an issue with the module.

    As for your second question, that is a bit harder to answer without knowing the entire architecture of your system layout. I would suggest that you call your nearest Tech Services location during normal business hours to discuss the options further as it is a bit hard to do in a forums setting.

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  • I will try to do that tomorrow when i get access to it. in the mean time, since you might actually help me decrypt this system (it got installed before any of us can remember, and oddly no one knows how its hooked up, but we are planning changes)  if you can list how you think our system works, it would be greatly appreciated.

     

    the breaker panel:

    stuff below the breaker panel:

    house light breakers:

    house light slider station:

    The last thing that can be found on the box is a weird looking clock which is an arrow on a metal base, with 4, 5, or 6 cables just hooked up to hit from inside the box; im sorry, i do not have a picture

    that is pretty much everything on the box, which the AAS sits on.  Any ideas would be greatly appreciated, as they will probably give more insight on the system than we have at this point (we are looking to ultimately rewire the stage lights)



    [edited by: poland fun at 4:41 PM (GMT -6) on Fri, Oct 14 2011]
  • First, I see that Lite-Trol is your service provider based on a sticker in one of your pics.  They are good people to contact and I suggest you consdier doing that if this isn't sorted soon.  Next, that tells me that your original analog control system was likely upgraded/replaced to AAS, which is something they are really good at doing, but that's only because you said you went to a ptach screen as the stations are ACS not AAS.

    I would trouble shoot this differently that Kirk mentioned.  Instead of removing dimmers, remove the RD-2034a and RD-2035 cards at the bottom of the rack.  You only have to pull them out slightly so that they power down.  If the lights still stay on, then the dimmer have a blown SSR and it needs to be replaced.

    I do not recommend removing dimmer modules from RD racks unless absolutely necessary.  As the modeuls age, the split pins begin to arc in the cahssis and they may weld themselves into place.  Removing a module then means rebuilding that slot in the rack.  Only remove when you need to and do not force anything.

    These racks have 2 filters for the fan chassis; one in front and one in the rear.  Keep both clean to reduce control card and dimmer failures.  Everyone forgets the one in back.  Also make sure all four fans are running in the fan chassis.  If not, replace the dead ones immediately.  You can order them online as they are still amde and cheaper than getting them from me.  Better yet, call Lite-Trol.

    Let us now how you get along,

    David

  • i was in a bit of a rush today, and i forgot to bring a flashlight, since oddly enough the florescent over it is hooked into the main breaker.  So all i managed to do is flip the main breaker, and watch the LED.s die down. Everyone LED went off right away, except the module all the way on the left, that output LED stayed lit after loss of power.  (the phase 1,2,3 LEDs right above that did go off)

    i will not be able to do more testing until later this week, when i go there with worklights

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  • i was in a bit of a rush today, and i forgot to bring a flashlight, since oddly enough the florescent over it is hooked into the main breaker.  So all i managed to do is flip the main breaker, and watch the LED.s die down. Everyone LED went off right away, except the module all the way on the left, that output LED stayed lit after loss of power.  (the phase 1,2,3 LEDs right above that did go off)

    i will not be able to do more testing until later this week, when i go there with worklights

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