Got the Lighthack box up and running today sans buttons! Thought putting a little drop of glue between button switch and side wall would really secure things. But! The Gorilla glue I used turned out to be a disaster. After applying a very small drop I found the drop mushroomed into a foam that grew to enormous proportions. And, in this case it forced its way right into the switches. Came back an hour later to find all switches totally locked solid! New 'Reds' are on the way now.
Probably missed it in the instructions but what do the buttons do anyway?
Even missing buttons the box is working perfectly on my EOS software at home and I can't wait to put it on the ELE2 tomorrow to move some new heads we just got.
I think I'll make anther one with a few mods. There is an alternative out there that has a coarse/fine switch for P&T. I found that I have to press hard on the wheels to spin them to get any real movement and this is not made easy by the long pot rotors. I.E. The wheels are too high. On the next box I will cut down the rotor to lower the wheels and see if I can recess the pots to get those wheels right down. I'm also going to cut a hole where the depression is on the wheels (maybe a little bigger) to give my index finger more traction to spin it.
No matter how careful I am with plastic my projects always end up with rough holes and heaps of scratches that really spoil the product. So, next time I'm using an aluminum face plate which will also have a decent hole to sink the LCD display and hopefully, as said before recess the P/T pots.
But, all in all very pleased now that we can get more control over our new MHs.
Wow that was so small it was difficult to read. As said I've watched the P&T values on the EOS suite at home change with the encoder wheels so feel pretty safe tomorrow to give a demo. From what you're saying then the buttons (which I am waiting for) are NEXT, LAST and FINE correct? That's good news. Without any buttons connect (I.E open) the movement seems pretty fine to me hence my notes on helping to make the wheels easier to spin with a finger.
ANd, in messing with EOS > "Capture" saw "Automark" in action. Awesome!
one way to keep your project boxes not scratched up when you're working on them is to put a couple layers of masking tape
OK its months later. But we recently got some MLs hung only to experiment with but on seeing them whistle around the stage a director wanted them in her show one day later! The poor lighting guy was none-plussed until I plugged the Ligthhack box into the USB drive and stuck his fingers on the wheels.And every one who has been near the console loves the box. Someone should make these things commercially. Not every one was born with a soldering iron in their hand. I actually ended up using having the faceplate 3D printed. Looks great.