I HAVE 6 STUDIO COLORS TOTAL. ONE OF THEM IS SIGNIFIGANTLY DIMMER THAN THE OTHERS. A LOCAL TECH REPLACED THE IGNITOR. DOES ANYBODY KNOW WHAT COULD BE CAUSING THIS. I TALKED TO HIM ON THE PHONE TODAY AND HE THOUGHT THAT IT COULD BE THE BALLAST. IS THIS HARD TO REMOVE. NOW I USED TO BE A MECHANIC SO I WOULD LIKE TO THINK THAT I COULD SNAKE IT OUT OF THERE. I NEED HELP ANY ADVICE WOULD BE GREAT THANKS
I am with puffy on this one, (As Usual) It sound like it just has a much older lamp than the others, Or perhaps the lamp has failed in an unusual way. I have seen the pinches in the inner envelope fail and then the lamp will continue to work at reduced output. Otherwise, I would lean more torwards a Lamp power supply than the Ignitor card. Since once the lamp is struck the ignitor is pretty much just a piece of wire. Of course, the LPS is a fairly expensive chunk of electronics, but that is what I would lean torwards.. Of course, this is all assuming you are talking about Studio Color S's or 575's If you have M's it could be a voltage setting as well, I am not sure, but if you had a fixture tapped for 208, but plugged into 120, it may indeed strike, but run at reduced output.. but this is pure speculation on my part... Not something I have tried..
Now in rereading your post, I see you refer to the possibly bad part as a ballast, that leans me torward an incorrect tap setting, as usually when a magnetic ballast fails it stops working, not so much on the reduced output.
Good luck, let us know how you work out. Joshua Wood
I am with puffy on this one, (As Usual) It sound like it just has a much older lamp than the others, Or perhaps the lamp has failed in an unusual way. I have seen the pinches in the inner envelope fail and then the lamp will continue to work at reduced output. Otherwise, I would lean more torwards a Lamp power supply than the Ignitor card. Since once the lamp is struck the ignitor is pretty much just a piece of wire. Of course, the LPS is a fairly expensive chunk of electronics, but that is what I would lean torwards.. Of course, this is all assuming you are talking about Studio Color S's or 575's If you have M's it could be a voltage setting as well, I am not sure, but if you had a fixture tapped for 208, but plugged into 120, it may indeed strike, but run at reduced output.. but this is pure speculation on my part... Not something I have tried..
Now in rereading your post, I see you refer to the possibly bad part as a ballast, that leans me torward an incorrect tap setting, as usually when a magnetic ballast fails it stops working, not so much on the reduced output.
Good luck, let us know how you work out. Joshua Wood
