Studio Color 575 Won't Strike

I've got 6 1997 Studio Colors 575 I got used. Lamp hours say 7000 something and lamp strikes say 3000 something. The total fixture hours are OVER. They've been sitting unused but powered on for probably years. Cleaned them up and I'm ready to go, except...

On all of them either F1 or F2 on the lamp board is blown. Now, HES says it's a 16A Fast or Ultra Fast blow...depenping on where on the site you read. But the board says 16A slow. Since I couldn't find either, I went with a 15A Fast. Figured it was safe enough and they must be some wiggle room right? Anyway, I mostly wanted to see the darned thing work. Replace the cover, turn it on and nothing. Look inside again and the new 15A fuse is fried. Somehow I'd let all the smoke out. Replace with another 15A but leave the cover off this time. Hit the power and the fuse lit up like a strobe lamp. It was a very short show but as least I had light, right? :18: Oh wait, it's supposed to be light on the outside.

Based on what I think I might be looking at (I'm hardly an electronics guy) it looks like power comes from the wall through the switch then through the RFI filter and straight on to the board. Looks to me like the filter could be bad but what else? And what do I do next?

Any help would be huge. And I gave the history in part to help troubleshoot and in part to solicit comments on what other damage I might still be looking at. By the way the Vers is 39E, it's a 575S plugged into a 120v/60Hz circuit, and the boards look mightly clean...no burns, exploded capacitors or dust.
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  • 0
    While cleaning the optics with the belts off, I noticed several bad stepper motors. Some were nearly frozen and others have a little too much resistance. Am I correct in that these cannot be repaired and should be replaced all 7 at a time?


    You cannot repair motors, I dont care who says you can.
    As you spin a motor in your fingers you can feel the steps. If it has spots that go from normal to almost a 'free spin' replace it. If it feels 'chunky' replace it. Feel a new motor. This is what your motors need to feel like! Any difference, replace the motor. Note* measure the place where the wheel is attached. The new one goes exactly where the other was per motor!! Note the teeth on the orange belts. If frayed replace the belts.
    Note** there is tension adjustment per motor, one of the motor mounts is slotted slightly.


    2 fixtures have pan issues. One moves through most of its range then grabs. The other will not move at all without manual assist. When they grab, they make a noise like the belts are rubbing against something...like the grooves or sprockets in the belts are being forced against something. But when I look inside, I just hear the noise. The belts are not moving at all. With the power off, the unit pans freely with no noise. What should I be looking for here?



    The entire head including the glass lens must be in place to operate or test properly. Check the belts, teeth missing or excessive wear? Replace the belt. Still chattering or not getting full movement replace the 3 ph motor. Still have a bug ? Replace the driver chips.

    As a side issue, each working fixture seems to home such that the yoke is not parallel to the base. Is this normal? How do I correct this? I tried pan calibration on the menu but +/- 20 is not enough.

    The last question is about lubricating parts. Should I be re-lubing the color wheel spindles and if so with what? And are there any other parts on the Studio Color (of the Cybers) that need to be lubricated.


    They are a little off and thats normal.
    PUT NO LUBE ON THE SPINDLES!!!:nono: OIL AND MOVING LIGHTS DONT MIX!!:aiwebs_007:
    FIRE MAY RESULT!! KRYTOX IS THE ONLY LUBE I USE AND IT AINT CHEAP!! ONLY USE KRYTOX. SMALL TUBE IS AROUND $100.00 US.
Reply
  • 0
    While cleaning the optics with the belts off, I noticed several bad stepper motors. Some were nearly frozen and others have a little too much resistance. Am I correct in that these cannot be repaired and should be replaced all 7 at a time?


    You cannot repair motors, I dont care who says you can.
    As you spin a motor in your fingers you can feel the steps. If it has spots that go from normal to almost a 'free spin' replace it. If it feels 'chunky' replace it. Feel a new motor. This is what your motors need to feel like! Any difference, replace the motor. Note* measure the place where the wheel is attached. The new one goes exactly where the other was per motor!! Note the teeth on the orange belts. If frayed replace the belts.
    Note** there is tension adjustment per motor, one of the motor mounts is slotted slightly.


    2 fixtures have pan issues. One moves through most of its range then grabs. The other will not move at all without manual assist. When they grab, they make a noise like the belts are rubbing against something...like the grooves or sprockets in the belts are being forced against something. But when I look inside, I just hear the noise. The belts are not moving at all. With the power off, the unit pans freely with no noise. What should I be looking for here?



    The entire head including the glass lens must be in place to operate or test properly. Check the belts, teeth missing or excessive wear? Replace the belt. Still chattering or not getting full movement replace the 3 ph motor. Still have a bug ? Replace the driver chips.

    As a side issue, each working fixture seems to home such that the yoke is not parallel to the base. Is this normal? How do I correct this? I tried pan calibration on the menu but +/- 20 is not enough.

    The last question is about lubricating parts. Should I be re-lubing the color wheel spindles and if so with what? And are there any other parts on the Studio Color (of the Cybers) that need to be lubricated.


    They are a little off and thats normal.
    PUT NO LUBE ON THE SPINDLES!!!:nono: OIL AND MOVING LIGHTS DONT MIX!!:aiwebs_007:
    FIRE MAY RESULT!! KRYTOX IS THE ONLY LUBE I USE AND IT AINT CHEAP!! ONLY USE KRYTOX. SMALL TUBE IS AROUND $100.00 US.
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