STUDIO COLOR 575s ~ problem w/sticky yellow colour wheel

Hello all!
I am PM'ing several sco's & found the yellow wheel sticking\rough on each one. I was wondering if this is a common thing on the 575'S'.
After pulling the wheels I noticed the shafts are gunky, but the frost & magenta wheels rotate fine. Is this due to the yellow being in the middle? If so, why doesn't the cyan on the other shaft misbehave as well?:06:

Has anyone else noticed this?

Just wondering, Thanks !

Jon B

P.S. I think I have found the cause. The unit I just tore apart had a big sticky lube-blob at the base of the shaft. Doesn't answer why the same one of six wheels consistently is afflicted. FYI I am not using any lube when re-assembling per others tips.
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  • I went thru the same thing with my 575s, I found the same issue with the yellow, I tore the units all the way down, and as “tadawson” mentioned, I used a very, very tiny amount of high temp caliper grease on the shafts, after cleaning all of the bushings, and optics. I also found that the belts were worn, and caused some "rubber band" effect when it was time for the optics to move. After I cleaned the units, replaced belts (took about 2 hours each including optics) they work awesome! Quite, and smooth too on color cycles!

    As far as the Iris, this is what I did, so do not attempt if you do not like how it sounds... (disclaimer) I cleaned the Iris assembly with “brake clean” removed all residue, and contaminates. I then applied a very thin layer of grease to the “sliding lever section on the outside where the gear connected” between the groove. I also found little metal burs on the inside of the groove (from its opening and closing so much), and cleaned them out, which in turn made the Iris very smooth, and free of dust and debris inside the iris itself. I then used Graphite, and just lightly, very lightly dusted the iris on both sides, and then sprayed with DRY compressed air on both sides, while opening and closing the iris to free the loose graphite for about 3-4 minutes. When I did fire up the lights, and had them pointing straight up with the shroud off, and then ran an “effect” using “sine” to open and close the iris every 20 seconds from 0 to full. (this helped remove any other graphite /dust) and it did make a smell from the heat, but after about 10 minutes shutters were great.

    Also two other notes on the Iris, I removed the gear from the stepper shaft, and rotated the shaft about 180 Degrees, and then put the gear back on. This helped one of my lights, as the shaft was always starting and stopping in the same location, the other I had to replace the stepper, as it did not have enough “torque” to open when the light was in the upright position.


    Hope this helps, again this is what I did, and it worked great for me, so you might want to consider it as “my budge way to fix”, but not responsible if you have any issues J hope other will chime in to express their thoughts too!
Reply
  • I went thru the same thing with my 575s, I found the same issue with the yellow, I tore the units all the way down, and as “tadawson” mentioned, I used a very, very tiny amount of high temp caliper grease on the shafts, after cleaning all of the bushings, and optics. I also found that the belts were worn, and caused some "rubber band" effect when it was time for the optics to move. After I cleaned the units, replaced belts (took about 2 hours each including optics) they work awesome! Quite, and smooth too on color cycles!

    As far as the Iris, this is what I did, so do not attempt if you do not like how it sounds... (disclaimer) I cleaned the Iris assembly with “brake clean” removed all residue, and contaminates. I then applied a very thin layer of grease to the “sliding lever section on the outside where the gear connected” between the groove. I also found little metal burs on the inside of the groove (from its opening and closing so much), and cleaned them out, which in turn made the Iris very smooth, and free of dust and debris inside the iris itself. I then used Graphite, and just lightly, very lightly dusted the iris on both sides, and then sprayed with DRY compressed air on both sides, while opening and closing the iris to free the loose graphite for about 3-4 minutes. When I did fire up the lights, and had them pointing straight up with the shroud off, and then ran an “effect” using “sine” to open and close the iris every 20 seconds from 0 to full. (this helped remove any other graphite /dust) and it did make a smell from the heat, but after about 10 minutes shutters were great.

    Also two other notes on the Iris, I removed the gear from the stepper shaft, and rotated the shaft about 180 Degrees, and then put the gear back on. This helped one of my lights, as the shaft was always starting and stopping in the same location, the other I had to replace the stepper, as it did not have enough “torque” to open when the light was in the upright position.


    Hope this helps, again this is what I did, and it worked great for me, so you might want to consider it as “my budge way to fix”, but not responsible if you have any issues J hope other will chime in to express their thoughts too!
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