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    aleproco
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StudioSpot CMY~how to realign the 4 dichroic wheels

I am cleaning / P.M.'ing our Studio Spot CMY units. I removed the four cmy wheels to clean them and now have a few questions:

1} how should I realign them when assembling the unit. - I noted that all wheels have holes that line up at either towards the center {beam path} of the unit or the flag motor before I removed them, can I just use that as a guide?

2} do the three little cogs & the raceway between each pair need to be lubed? - I have high temp caliper lube. should I clean this area out & re-grease it with several lite dabs? They looked as if they had been greased previously, but they cam from the same people that gobbed lube all over the iris of one of my studio colors.

I ask the wise wisdom of all, so that I may have fewer problems later. That & I don't want to make a bigger mess than I have already.:o
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    Man did you step into a bee's nest...

    Yes the holes are for alignment of all of them.
    I suggest you call Chris and have a speakerphone set up.
    There is only one kind of lube used in these lights Chris will advise you.
    Call 1-800-890-8989. 9:30 am cst is a good time.
    The down pressure of all the dicros on the shaft is the key to making all this work. Get ready to be frustrated till you figure it out.

    I devised a method to clean them without taking them apart but it's very tricky and if you screw up you will break them.

    Good luck. I suggest you "call before you dig" next time.;)

    I'll see if i can get some pictures of my cleaning methods for the CMY's posted.
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    Thanks! I knew something would make this difficult, things came apart way to easily. I'll try Chris sometime next week, I haven't cleaned any of the grease off & kept it off the glass, so hopefully it will be happy being reused. Fortunately I made a sharpie mark on the shaft before removing the wheels, so at least I have a starting point.
    On the next unit I will try to clean the colors with a tongue depressor, alcohol/distilled h2o, and lint-less paper towels.
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    The trick is keep the cleaning element wet and any downward pressure you do MUST be supported from below. Use long depressors about 6-8". I personally use a 12" hex wrench 3/32" wrapped in a lintless paper towel that I unwrap as I go to always have clean wet paper available.
    I move the dicro keeping the cleaning tool in one place, this works best for me, with the assembly still in one piece.:D

    The only lube I use is KRYTOX from DuPont. Chris at HES knows where you can get a tube for about $30. Avoid it getting on the glass like the plague!:nono:
    I never take these apart unless the dicro's are broken.

    Look very carefully at where the top of the lock ring is on your others. This is key. A few hundreths of and inch too far down or up and all you will get is errors. I finally made a depth gauge as a start point that hits it right on often after many tries and shaving the gauge down to just the right point.

    Took me 6 tries to get it right and even the its hit or miss on the pressure.
    Bout drove me nuts.:aargh4:
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    :notworthy:THANKS PUFFY!!!:headbang:

    I was dreading having to build & tear down the color unit multiple times. I made a depth gauge off of the other unit & got it on the 2nd try!!!

    The next time I will ask before I start pulling everything apart:poke:.

    For cleaning my other CMY I will make some type of 'cleaning prod' like you mentioned, and hopefully not make such a mess.

    Once again thanks, your help was great!
    Jon Barnes
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    Glad I could help. You be damn careful with those dicros now, very expensive! It's a two handed job.
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