Intellabeam Issues

I have two Intellabeams with issues. I'm hoping somebody can help me out.

The first unit is an early '90s unit. All fuses, switch, and power cord are good. When the unit is plugged in, is in self test mode, and the switch is on, nothing happens. None of the LEDs light up. There is power going into the power board but nothing coming out. I'm guessing either a bad board or bad transformer/ballast. I've switched out the capacitor with a good unit and thats not the issue. I would switch the power board, too, but my other unit is a year younger and has different connectors on the board. Ideas?

The second unit was purchased on Ebay to replace the above. The guy that sold it knows nothing about them but advertised it as fully working. It was packed horribly so I'm hoping something just came loose in shipping and will be an easy fix. The lamp is in, but I'm pretty sure it's spent, but I don't think that should result in what's happening. When the unit is plugged in, is in self test mode, and switched on, the motor LED lights and nothing else happens. Then the third or fourth time I switched the switch on and off the motor LED stopped lighting. Power stopped going through the switch, and I ran out of time to keep trouble shooting. The unit smells horribly of animal urine and appears to have been stored in an uncontrolled climate as the screws are slightly rusty and terminals on the plug are corroded. I'm trying to get my money back, and may end up having to send it back, but I'd like to try to fix it if I can. I have a feeling that the animal urine got all over the control and power boards and probably destroyed them. What should I look at to find the issue?

Thanks,
Adam Curtis
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  • 0
    If you have no LEDs lit on the back, then the power board is the likely culprit. On the power board, F3, BR-1, C4, and REG-1 are about the only components between the transformer and the 5V LED being lit. If no 5V, then nothing works . . . the unit won't spin up motor power, fans, nada. So, check fuse F3 first, and if it is good, then check for DC power on C4, and then after REG-1. Any of these parts are pretty much generic, and should cost you $5 or less . . . . While transformers can fail, they are largely a passive device, and I would tend to look there last myself . . . I have had a bridge or two go out on mine, and I would check there first - and typically when they go, they take the fuse out with them (the fail shorted . . . ).

    On the second unit, it's pretty much the same story to begin with . . . but regarding board damage, I don't know . . . I don't recall if the IBeam boards were coated or not (Its been a while since I have been in mine). If so, they should hold up, if not, who knows . . . it depends how much/how long there was contact. The good news is that an IBeam power supply is a pretty simple board, and if you have trace breaks, you can repair with flying ties and be pretty much as good as new.

    Also be aware that IBeams are notorious for burning the connectors to the lamp and ballast, as well as others. Myself, I found screw down headers that are a direct replacement for the connectors, and replaced every one in my gear. It takes a negligible amount of extra time to get the harness off with the screws, and nothing fails any more . . .

    Oh, and full power board/logic board schematics are available at the High End site . . www.highend.com/support/discontinued/intellabeam_700hx.asp

    - Tim
Reply
  • 0
    If you have no LEDs lit on the back, then the power board is the likely culprit. On the power board, F3, BR-1, C4, and REG-1 are about the only components between the transformer and the 5V LED being lit. If no 5V, then nothing works . . . the unit won't spin up motor power, fans, nada. So, check fuse F3 first, and if it is good, then check for DC power on C4, and then after REG-1. Any of these parts are pretty much generic, and should cost you $5 or less . . . . While transformers can fail, they are largely a passive device, and I would tend to look there last myself . . . I have had a bridge or two go out on mine, and I would check there first - and typically when they go, they take the fuse out with them (the fail shorted . . . ).

    On the second unit, it's pretty much the same story to begin with . . . but regarding board damage, I don't know . . . I don't recall if the IBeam boards were coated or not (Its been a while since I have been in mine). If so, they should hold up, if not, who knows . . . it depends how much/how long there was contact. The good news is that an IBeam power supply is a pretty simple board, and if you have trace breaks, you can repair with flying ties and be pretty much as good as new.

    Also be aware that IBeams are notorious for burning the connectors to the lamp and ballast, as well as others. Myself, I found screw down headers that are a direct replacement for the connectors, and replaced every one in my gear. It takes a negligible amount of extra time to get the harness off with the screws, and nothing fails any more . . .

    Oh, and full power board/logic board schematics are available at the High End site . . www.highend.com/support/discontinued/intellabeam_700hx.asp

    - Tim
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