Intellabeam Issues

I have two Intellabeams with issues. I'm hoping somebody can help me out.

The first unit is an early '90s unit. All fuses, switch, and power cord are good. When the unit is plugged in, is in self test mode, and the switch is on, nothing happens. None of the LEDs light up. There is power going into the power board but nothing coming out. I'm guessing either a bad board or bad transformer/ballast. I've switched out the capacitor with a good unit and thats not the issue. I would switch the power board, too, but my other unit is a year younger and has different connectors on the board. Ideas?

The second unit was purchased on Ebay to replace the above. The guy that sold it knows nothing about them but advertised it as fully working. It was packed horribly so I'm hoping something just came loose in shipping and will be an easy fix. The lamp is in, but I'm pretty sure it's spent, but I don't think that should result in what's happening. When the unit is plugged in, is in self test mode, and switched on, the motor LED lights and nothing else happens. Then the third or fourth time I switched the switch on and off the motor LED stopped lighting. Power stopped going through the switch, and I ran out of time to keep trouble shooting. The unit smells horribly of animal urine and appears to have been stored in an uncontrolled climate as the screws are slightly rusty and terminals on the plug are corroded. I'm trying to get my money back, and may end up having to send it back, but I'd like to try to fix it if I can. I have a feeling that the animal urine got all over the control and power boards and probably destroyed them. What should I look at to find the issue?

Thanks,
Adam Curtis
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    The regulator is a 7805, which is a three terminal tabbed device, which most likely is standing at the edge of the board, on the heat sink, looking much like one of the power control SCRs. If you have a meter, check for DC voltage at the "+" terminal of C4 to ground - that's the input to the regulator. If nothing, move back though the bridge and the transformer. (You *have* verified that the voltage select taps are set correctly, right???). If you have voltage there, look for 5 volts DC on the "+" terminal of C6. If that's good, and still no 5V LED, then the harness between the power board and logic board is suspect. The same pretty much applies to the 24V supply - just it's a different bridge, cap, and regulator.

    The more I think about this, the more I suspect that the voltage select jumper is wrong - that is about the only thing that will totally kill a fixture that can be messed up by a user (or set wrong) as opposed to an outright failure. I *strongly* suggest that you download the schematics from HES - these things are not exactly rocket science . . . frankly, the power supply is pretty much Fred Flintstone . . . but the 120V voltage jumpers for US 120V/60Hz are 5 to 6 and 1 to 3 . . . if it had been on 240V, it would likely appear dead . . .

    And did you remove *EVERY* plug on connector on the power board and give it a check? The power input connector, voltage select, and ballast connectors are the ones that I have seen fail . . . the others are low enough current that while they could, it's pretty unlikely . . . but any one of the first two will leave it totally dead.

    And where are you located? Your profile is blank . . .

    - Tim
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  • 0
    The regulator is a 7805, which is a three terminal tabbed device, which most likely is standing at the edge of the board, on the heat sink, looking much like one of the power control SCRs. If you have a meter, check for DC voltage at the "+" terminal of C4 to ground - that's the input to the regulator. If nothing, move back though the bridge and the transformer. (You *have* verified that the voltage select taps are set correctly, right???). If you have voltage there, look for 5 volts DC on the "+" terminal of C6. If that's good, and still no 5V LED, then the harness between the power board and logic board is suspect. The same pretty much applies to the 24V supply - just it's a different bridge, cap, and regulator.

    The more I think about this, the more I suspect that the voltage select jumper is wrong - that is about the only thing that will totally kill a fixture that can be messed up by a user (or set wrong) as opposed to an outright failure. I *strongly* suggest that you download the schematics from HES - these things are not exactly rocket science . . . frankly, the power supply is pretty much Fred Flintstone . . . but the 120V voltage jumpers for US 120V/60Hz are 5 to 6 and 1 to 3 . . . if it had been on 240V, it would likely appear dead . . .

    And did you remove *EVERY* plug on connector on the power board and give it a check? The power input connector, voltage select, and ballast connectors are the ones that I have seen fail . . . the others are low enough current that while they could, it's pretty unlikely . . . but any one of the first two will leave it totally dead.

    And where are you located? Your profile is blank . . .

    - Tim
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