Using sub-masters as relays for power to intelligent light fixtures

Hoping that someone can help me work this out. I am newer to production lighting without and real formal training.

I am currently using two sub-masters to control the power to my intelligent fixtures.

I understand this is not the best option but this is how our system is setup.

I am wanting to know how to setup these sub-masters as relays instead of intensity sub-masters.

I need them to go from 0% -> 100% and not anywhere in-between to prevent damage to them.

I am on a ION board and any and all help would be greatly appreciated!

Thank you!

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  • If you can, setting a dimmer module to the switched relay mode would be best.

    I also use subs to provide power to some of my intelligent fixtures.  My fixtures are all plugged into non-dims and are patched with the "Non-dim at 50" profile.

    I set the non-dim channels to 100% in my subs and then shield the sub, so that nothing else will touch those channels.  The other thing I do is set the bump button upfade and downfade times to 0 and the dwell mode to "hold" so that it acts as a toggle switch.  That way, all I have to do to power on/off my movers is click the sub bump button.  It even blinks steadily once activated.  I've been doing it like this for a year and have never had a problem with this setup.  A quick glace at my "power subs" and I can see their status.  Blinking light = on, static light = off.

    That's just my way of doing it, but there are other options, as others have suggested, depending on your preference.  Hope it works out for you.  :)



    [edited by: Drdehnana at 11:10 AM (GMT -6) on Mon, Dec 9 2013]
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  • If you can, setting a dimmer module to the switched relay mode would be best.

    I also use subs to provide power to some of my intelligent fixtures.  My fixtures are all plugged into non-dims and are patched with the "Non-dim at 50" profile.

    I set the non-dim channels to 100% in my subs and then shield the sub, so that nothing else will touch those channels.  The other thing I do is set the bump button upfade and downfade times to 0 and the dwell mode to "hold" so that it acts as a toggle switch.  That way, all I have to do to power on/off my movers is click the sub bump button.  It even blinks steadily once activated.  I've been doing it like this for a year and have never had a problem with this setup.  A quick glace at my "power subs" and I can see their status.  Blinking light = on, static light = off.

    That's just my way of doing it, but there are other options, as others have suggested, depending on your preference.  Hope it works out for you.  :)



    [edited by: Drdehnana at 11:10 AM (GMT -6) on Mon, Dec 9 2013]
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