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    Henry Dursin
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Element - problem with using submasters with S4 Luster 2 LEDS

I'm running an element 60-500 with software version 2.2.1 and a mix of S4 conventional fixtures and S4 Luster 2 LED fixtures. I can program LED fixtures into submasters with color palettes and levels and each sub will work properly. When I have one sub up and bring up another sub from 0 to even 01, the first sub loses it's color setting and goes to full white. I can push the bump button on the other sub and the first sub will return to normal.  Both subs will then work properly as long as the second sub is not set back to 0 and then raised again. I've set the subs to I-master.  I'm trying to use the subs to build looks, so need to use them together.  I've got a home Q that initializes everything, including the color parameters, to 0.  Is there a way to eliminate this problem.

Thanks,

Pete Dursin - ME - City of Bowie, Md.

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  • 0
    You have a red sub and a blue one. You have the red one up and then raise the blue one. What should happen? You bring down the red or the blue one. What should happen in either case?
  • 0 in reply to ueliriegg
    Red Sub up - red light comes up - red bump button flashes
    Add Blue Sub up - red light becomes white (hue & saturation at 0) - blue light comes up - blue bump button flashes
    What should happen - both red and blue lights - on separate channels/instruments - should come up
    Push blue bump button - red sub operation becomes normal - blue sub channel goes to white
    Red sub to 0 - red light stays red until out - blue light stays white
    Blue sub to 0 - blue channel remains white but fades out to 0 - blue bump button flashes
    Blue sub up - blue light comes up - blue bump button flashes
    Red sub up - blue light becomes white - red light comes up - red bump button flashes

    Both subs are zeroed except for the test channels. Both are set for additive/I-master/HTP

    Each sub is operating channels that are not in the other sub. Each sub should control it's own channels and not effect the channels in the other sub. Each sub is actually zeroing the hue and saturation for the channel in the other sub.

    If one sets each sub to 1% or higher and pushes the flashing bump buttons, both subs will operate correctly - putting both colors on the stage - as long as neither sub goes all the way to zero. If either sub goes to zero, operation is as described above.
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  • 0 in reply to ueliriegg
    Red Sub up - red light comes up - red bump button flashes
    Add Blue Sub up - red light becomes white (hue & saturation at 0) - blue light comes up - blue bump button flashes
    What should happen - both red and blue lights - on separate channels/instruments - should come up
    Push blue bump button - red sub operation becomes normal - blue sub channel goes to white
    Red sub to 0 - red light stays red until out - blue light stays white
    Blue sub to 0 - blue channel remains white but fades out to 0 - blue bump button flashes
    Blue sub up - blue light comes up - blue bump button flashes
    Red sub up - blue light becomes white - red light comes up - red bump button flashes

    Both subs are zeroed except for the test channels. Both are set for additive/I-master/HTP

    Each sub is operating channels that are not in the other sub. Each sub should control it's own channels and not effect the channels in the other sub. Each sub is actually zeroing the hue and saturation for the channel in the other sub.

    If one sets each sub to 1% or higher and pushes the flashing bump buttons, both subs will operate correctly - putting both colors on the stage - as long as neither sub goes all the way to zero. If either sub goes to zero, operation is as described above.
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