Dimming Profile

Profiles in Eos/Ion are called curves.  In patch curves are under attributes.  I believe the curve you are looking for is one of the defaults (900 series) already in the soft ware or you can create your own.  Check out chapter 22 in the manual.

Now that I've been out to the board, the curve you want is 905, full at 1%.

It will work just fine, but you do know that you shouldn't be plugging the hazer into a dimmer at all, even when it is non-dim.  It should be plugged into a proper non-dimmable 120v outlet.  The cut off wave form of a dimmer is not good for the hazer.

This is a good point.  You could also use a relay to properly control power to the hazer (i.e. an R20 module in a Sensor rack)

Totally hijacking this thread, but why would he want an R20 and not just a CC20?

An R20 (Relay Module) is a DMX controlled Relay switch and a CC20 (Constant Current Module) is not controllable, thus always on unless the breaker is turned off.

Oh, sweet, thanks.

-tim

The preferred solution is to use an R20 because it has a hard contact closure.

Although we can’t guarantee it will have no effect on your devices, (note the disclaimer) another option is to run a D20 in “Switched” mode.  We do not do power condition when in this setting.  This can be changed from the CEM or CEM+ face panel.   It will be under “Setup dimmer.”  Then, change the firing mode from “Normal” to “switched” for the dimmer in question.   This will only effect the dimmer you modify.  The other half of the D20 will continue to function normally.

Hi there,

I have been using "switched" mode for years for my hazers and foggers and ram supplies etc with no issues. As I have been aquiring relay modules I have been using the switched mode less but still use it all the time. Switched and non-dim mode are not the same. As I understand it switched is unregulated while non-dim is chopped to keep to a defined voltage.

Tim

The other reason to use a R20 is if you have an issue with inrush current, such as when using HID fixtures.