Element 2 Pan and Tilt

Put my first moving heads on the stage this am. I found trying to P&T very frustrating. ELE2 doesn't have encoder wheels and pulling the little dot around the XY screen is - well - to put it mildly klunky and erratic. I was wondering if I could put the Pan and then the Tilt onto the main roller wheel? Or perhaps I could use a sub. In that case as we're using 16bit P&T I guess I would have to make a FP at their max and save that. Ideas welcome.

My other questions is about MHs in general; We have a real cheap pair but they work well> However, both point in different directions when turned on and/or reset. Trying to get the beasts to dance together is causing major hair loss. Is this normal for MHs? and if so does one point them in the same direction and then save that as "Home" FP?

  • it is not normal for MHs that are rigged the same way (and don't have settings (in the fixtures themselves) to calibrate P/T to a different position) to not point in the same direction. Home preset is a solution as long as you you move both of them with encoders (or virtual encoders), but if you use numbers to control the parameter then you're off again.

    the XY screen is not helpful in your situation. but next to it are onscreen pan and a tilt encoders. those do help.

    and last but not least there is a thing called lighthack box1 that would help you as well. https://blog.etcconnect.com/2017/12/lighthack-community-supported-eos-project-kit/

  • Since you don't have encoders you could try a trackball. I've found that it's way more intuitive than encoders as long as it is set up correctly.

  • An easy option is to setup 4 buttons on a magic sheet that nudge the pan and tilt by a value like +/- 5

    To do that record 4 macros 

    Pan +  0 1 enter

    Pan + - 0 1 enter

    Tilt + 0 1 enter

    Tilt + - 0 1 enter

    then create a magic sheet and add 4 macro buttons that run each one (lay them out sensibly ie a cross shape so its intuitive which one does what.

    Then all you do is select the channels and press these nudge buttons to position.

    Note:

    Once you've mastered that you can extend it and add  4 more with bigger values so rough positioning is quicker ie instead of  0 1 which should give a 1 degree movement I have 0 5 as well (laid out on the magic sheet to the outside of my fine control.

    You can use the same technique for colour ie Saturation and Hue ( with saturation ie use @ / 105 and @ / 95 as that does an actual % increase decrease rather than a fixed 5 value increase.

    Hope that helps

    Re the positioning even cheap ones would normally be the same.  With no dmx signal when they power up do they when the complete their usual calibatation moves home to the same angles and/or is nothing obstructing them when they do that calibration process and they are rigged the same.  If they dont home to the same angles with no DMX then see if they have a reset all settings on the front panel and do that in case someone (in the store or factory set something accidently).  If after all that they wont home with no dmx to the same position its possible they are actual different versions of the same fixture but look identically. I had a pair of cheap movers and bought another pair from the same store and the second pair were only 8 bit pan/tilt with a completely different patch and no apparent way of getting them into a different mode.

    If they do home with no DMX the same then we can look at your patch settings to try to figure it out.

  • The mouse wheel with the mouse hovering over the onscreen pan and a tilt encoders makes things a bit easier.

  • You could use a P/T box from the lighthack on github. i have done this and it makes life quite easy. cheep to make if you don't use the screen and only takes about an hour to construct. Load the code and off you go.

    Regards

    Geoff

  • I hope that my reply here is read by all who came back on that one. From what was said  there is obvsioulsy a problem with at least  one of the MHs. I'm putting this a general lighting forum to see if I can 'adjust' the wretched thing. 

    Re the P&T control there are a lot of things you have pointed out  So, ALL your notes have been put into a doc to create a series of experiment and come up with the best way for my purposes.

    Thanks all, for your very helpful comeback.

    PS should add that even with these rinky dink MHs - moving them for the 1st time was a thrill!

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