I've just got some studio color 575's and they are the M model. from what I've read they can run 208v-230v, the labels say 208v only? I don't have a 208v in my shop to test them and before I fry some thing I figured I better ask before I plug them up. also I saw in the manual (I think thats where) that they can be re-taped to run 110v?
[quote=jeeper]I've just got some studio color 575's and they are the M model. from what I've read they can run 208v-230v, the labels say 208v only? I don't have a 208v in my shop to test them and before I fry some thing I figured I better ask before I plug them up. also I saw in the manual (I think thats where) that they can be re-taped to run 110v?
The "M" will run 208 or 240, 50 or 60 Hz. There are three tap leads coming from the ballast - a black, a yellow, and a red. There is a sticker on the top of the ballast that tells you which to use for what voltage combination (I can't honestly remember at the moment . . . ). The solid state motor power supply can run 110V, but the ballast *cannot*, rendering the "M" to 208 or 240 only . . .
240 volt, 60Hz I use the yellow, and 208V, 60Hz the black, and have done so for 4 years or so with no issues . . . Red would be an overseas voltage/freq. in my mind . . .
I'm back!! I used the yellow and all was well for about a week, now the lamp won't strike. The bulb is new. everything is working just not the bulb. I tried changing the lead to the red and same thing, won't strike. the one thing that I can find or hear is the IGNITER (the one that's mounted on the yoke arm) Is buzzing. could this be bad?
Could be a bad lamp wire, might be the ignitor in the arm. If you see 30v going into the ignitor but no strike, it might be a bad lamp wire considering the age of the unit. Check the primary input voltage at strike. Avoid the secondary side as it will fry your meter!:eek: :nono:
