Cyberlights on 110V?

Electrical code and experience don't produce bonehead comments such as:

This way when (not IF but WHEN) one goes up in smoke

(Which granted, was not you . . . but *was* what I took exception to . . . )

That's just plain ignorance of the solution. A properly sized transformer will have a lifetime similar to a large rock . . . they are both passive, and if properly sized, will live forever.

The units I am speaking of are UL/CE listed in enclosure - so what code problem again?

And I don't know where 15 amp circuits came into the discussion, but certainly not from me. Note I suggested a 2400VA step-up, which pretty clearly implies a 20A breakered circuit . . . and I have seen damn few commercial facilities at which the utility power wasn't breakered at 20A . . . and pulling 1600 or so watts on a 20A circuit is not "this kind of load" it's more like "what it's rated for" . . .

Granted, you *must* know the venue and the wiring system, and in that we agree - I made the assumption that he had plenty of 120, and nada for 208, which is the case in a lot of schools and other smaller "townie" venues, even recently built. (I was in a nice house last week - 1 year old, beautiful Vortec fly system, etc. etc. and not squat for a power tie in . . . amazing what they can forget at times, even today . . . ) but I digress . . .

And yes, the crappy club scene is scary, and I am fortunate to have not had to touch that in years . . . . so, my mind was thinking of more "real" performance spaces, that have crippled power - see above. Regarding the length of run at 120V, I think that is unrealistically long myself . . . you step up at the outlet, and then cable to the lamp at 240, thus negating a lot of the drop. If the run is that long, even if you got 208 all the way, it will be a factor . . . . and if the drop is that bad, meter at the fixture, and consider the 208 tap vs 220 or 240 . . . not really that hard to deal with, with a functional brain, of course . . .

Oh, and my experience is as an Electrical Engineer, with decent experience in power systems, and 25 years or so in lighting . Perhaps I am more willing to use "creative" solutions on my own stuff, since I know what is what, and can ensure that all is up to the task, and in this regard, I may over suggest for some folks. I just have a hard time dumbing down my suggestions based on the end user - I prefer to speak to the technology, and let the end user figure out what does and does not apply . . .

To the OP, it sounds like for what you want to do, a Cyber may well be far more fixture than you are looking for. Other than the power requirements, they are quite large and heavy (110lbs, IIRC) and don't fit in small venues well. Oh, and forget about getting one, (other than perhaps the Katrina refugee that a photo was up of a while back - basically underwater for a month) for $50. The cheapest I have ever gotten *any* quality mover is $200, and that was for quite old stuff that was not working and that I had to rebuild. If you want something you can trust, and is a decent brand, $500 each won't get much, but you might find something, and $1000 each is more realistic.

For $50 a hit, you will find nice PAR cans, with a lamp, and that's about it . . .

- Tim

Electrical code and experience don't produce bonehead comments such as:

This way when (not IF but WHEN) one goes up in smoke

(Which granted, was not you . . . but *was* what I took exception to . . . )

That's just plain ignorance of the solution. A properly sized transformer will have a lifetime similar to a large rock . . . they are both passive, and if properly sized, will live forever.

The units I am speaking of are UL/CE listed in enclosure - so what code problem again?

And I don't know where 15 amp circuits came into the discussion, but certainly not from me. Note I suggested a 2400VA step-up, which pretty clearly implies a 20A breakered circuit . . . and I have seen damn few commercial facilities at which the utility power wasn't breakered at 20A . . . and pulling 1600 or so watts on a 20A circuit is not "this kind of load" it's more like "what it's rated for" . . .

Granted, you *must* know the venue and the wiring system, and in that we agree - I made the assumption that he had plenty of 120, and nada for 208, which is the case in a lot of schools and other smaller "townie" venues, even recently built. (I was in a nice house last week - 1 year old, beautiful Vortec fly system, etc. etc. and not squat for a power tie in . . . amazing what they can forget at times, even today . . . ) but I digress . . .

And yes, the crappy club scene is scary, and I am fortunate to have not had to touch that in years . . . . so, my mind was thinking of more "real" performance spaces, that have crippled power - see above. Regarding the length of run at 120V, I think that is unrealistically long myself . . . you step up at the outlet, and then cable to the lamp at 240, thus negating a lot of the drop. If the run is that long, even if you got 208 all the way, it will be a factor . . . . and if the drop is that bad, meter at the fixture, and consider the 208 tap vs 220 or 240 . . . not really that hard to deal with, with a functional brain, of course . . .

Oh, and my experience is as an Electrical Engineer, with decent experience in power systems, and 25 years or so in lighting . Perhaps I am more willing to use "creative" solutions on my own stuff, since I know what is what, and can ensure that all is up to the task, and in this regard, I may over suggest for some folks. I just have a hard time dumbing down my suggestions based on the end user - I prefer to speak to the technology, and let the end user figure out what does and does not apply . . .

To the OP, it sounds like for what you want to do, a Cyber may well be far more fixture than you are looking for. Other than the power requirements, they are quite large and heavy (110lbs, IIRC) and don't fit in small venues well. Oh, and forget about getting one, (other than perhaps the Katrina refugee that a photo was up of a while back - basically underwater for a month) for $50. The cheapest I have ever gotten *any* quality mover is $200, and that was for quite old stuff that was not working and that I had to rebuild. If you want something you can trust, and is a decent brand, $500 each won't get much, but you might find something, and $1000 each is more realistic.

For $50 a hit, you will find nice PAR cans, with a lamp, and that's about it . . .

- Tim