Wierd Studio Spot 250 Issue.

Hi Balvinder,

The fixture's Mode may be set to Studio Color. You can change this from the fixture's menu. See steps below.

1. Press and hold the button until “ADDR” appears on the LED display.

2. Using the and arrow buttons, scroll to the “MODE” menu and press the button to select the “MODE” menu.

3. Using the and arrow buttons, scroll to the “TYPE” menu. (This will be the first menu displayed). Press the button to select the “TYPE” menu.

4. Using the and arrow buttons, choose the “SPOT” option for Studio Spot 250 fixtures, or the “COLR” option for Studio Color 250 fixtures. Press the button to select the desired option.

Regarding the color wheel, when you say that the motor seems to be working, are you seeing the motor rotate the wheel in self-test? Or, are you able to rotate the wheel when the fixtures are OFF?

Hope this helps.
Best Regards,
p

Awesome, I go check the mode rite now.

The color wheel twiches when in self test and with a little nudge, actually does move. When off I can more the wheel.

Still could be a failing motor, or maybe a bad motor driver chip?

You could try swapping motor driver chips on the logic board. i.e...change the color wheel motor driver chip with a similar motor driver chip from one of the other parameters, gobo wheel, for instance. If the color wheel work properly and the gobo wheel starts twitching, then you need to replace the motor driver chip.

When swapping motor driver chips, make sure the fxture is OFF. And use some caution when removing the chips from the board, as the 'teeth' on the chips bend easily. And make sure when re-installing the chips, that they are oriented in the same direction as the other chips in that row.

Hope this helps,
p

The mode change fixed the problem. Thank you.

I don't know which logic chip to remove. Is there a label on the board?

the wires are labled, and it's the motor..odds are 98% motor.

I guess I will have to agree to disagree . . . Every time I have had one that just "twitched" like that, but was not stuck, it's been a driver chip. Motor windings are passive, and typically don't fail . . . at least in my experience . . .

- Tim

Ok,

1) I found some HES motors on e-bay, so I am going to try the fix myself. I notice that some motors have longer spindals than others, eg The Iris Motor spindle is longer.

Can the spindles be swapped out?

2) It was suggested that I try changing the control chips. Which one is for the color wheel? My chips wiring is labeled as follows and it is not obvious which one is for the color wheel!

First row:
Litho/Cyan M0
Litho Rot YLM M1
Focus M2
Iris/Dimmer M3
Tilt HD9

Row Two:
FX/LENT M7
FX/ROT M6
Color/Magenta M5
Dim1 M4A
Dim2 M4B
Pan HD10

3) Lastly one of my units works fine but shows PAN/TILT error during self test only.

What could this be?

Thanks in advance for you help!

The spindles can be cut but be very careful not to get the spindle too hot or bend it.

All the spindles on the new motors are short. So I guess I have to buy a motor with a long Spindle for the Iris?

Earlier, I was told to check the motor control chip. In one unit the color wheel motor control chip is labled Y820 PBL 3773, and all the other control chips are labeled Y818 PBL 3773.

Could this be what is causing the color sensor error?

the numer that counts here is the 3773. and here a link to where to get them at a great price

www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/NJR/NJM3773D2/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvYc73DDAmzVrSGEIgrGtl7w%252bg4E6DFSXE%3d

John, for three studio spots, how many control chips would you suggest that I keep on hand?

six or so?